Living in Brunei: an expat guide
What to expect when moving to Brunei
New arrivals are likely to experience some culture shock. Brunei is a strict Islamic country. You won’t find bars, discotheques, or retail alcohol — although non-Muslims may import limited quantities of alcohol for personal consumption whenever they enter the country.
It's too small to have sophisticated infrastructures or economies of scale. But Brunei still has plenty going for it: good security, clean air, readily available domestic help, really cheap petrol, unspoilt jungle, good schooling, and a central position in the region for convenient travel. It’s an ideal environment for international families.
Where to live in Brunei
Brunei is geographically in two parts for historical reasons. Most people live and work in the larger part. This essentially has a developed coastal strip whilst further inland much of the land area is still virgin rainforest.
At one end of this coastal strip are the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, the international airport, and the main seaport of Muara. The greatest concentration of living is either in the capital or in a series of adjoining urban areas such as Rimba, Berakas, and Jerudong.
At the other end of the country, around Seria and Kuala Belait, is where both the oil and gas industry and the British Garrison are based. There is a good highway, virtually all dual carriageway, linking these two main areas. So where you live will depend on what you’re doing in Brunei, your place of work, or possibly where your children go to school. Most foreign nationals, especially those with families, prefer to live in houses with their own gardens but apartments are also available. Property is easy to rent; bargain if you can.
Setting up life in Brunei
Healthcare
Healthcare in Brunei is good. Virtually all Bruneian and expat specialists and doctors speak English. You can opt for government-provided healthcare, attending RIPAS (a Bruneian acronym), the main hospital in Bandar Seri Begawan, which has a well-equipped ‘mother and child’ wing.
For Bruneians, these services are practically free while internationals pay quite modest fees. Treatment and care are good but the bathroom facilities can be somewhat basic.
Or you can go to the main private hospital, Jerudong Park Medical Centre, which has a full range of standard services including maternity and paediatrics, along with cancer and stroke centres.
However, for greater specialisation, it might be necessary to go further afield to Singapore, for example. Some international mums happily decide to give birth in Brunei. Others go elsewhere in the region or back home, depending on their preferences. In addition to the Government-provided health centres, there are also several small private GP practices which are normally good and convenient.
Getting started in Brunei
Brunei is very much what you make of it. Try the local markets and the hawker food stalls. Visit and even stay weekends at the exotic Empire Hotel (spa resort with golf course). Sail and relax at the Royal Brunei Yacht Club. Use the recognised public walking and cycling tracks or visit the canopy walk in the Ulu Temburong National Park. And make excursions to Miri just across the border in Sarawak and to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah.
Driving
Important practical advice on transport: you need to have your own car to get around in Brunei. Both new and second-hand cars are reasonably priced and the cost of petrol is heavily subsidised. Parking can also be a headache as there is generally insufficient provision, especially in commercial complexes. There are some school buses but the private ferrying of children to and from school seems to be the norm.
Meeting new people
Brunei has a large expat contingent. The foreign community mixes well, amongst themselves and with the Bruneians – most of whom speak excellent English. Social contact with Bruneians is mainly through work and school.
A particularly enjoyable custom for foreigners to share is open-house visits to Muslim families at Hari Raya (Eid celebrations at the end of Ramadhan) and to Chinese families at Chinese New Year.
You may also be fortunate enough to be invited to a traditional Malay wedding – a very important part of Brunei culture. The Bruneians are friendly and polite and foreigners need to respect their religion, culture, traditions, and political system.
The Bruneians are friendly and polite and foreigners need to respect their religion, culture, traditions, and political system.
The majority of the workforce are still civil servants and what seems to the outsider as unwarranted layers of bureaucracy can be a problem. A combination of patience, politeness, and determination is normally the best formula. It will take a little time to settle the essentials but you will usually get help.
Shopping
The shops stock standard fare, with local or regional produce being the cheapest. A couple of the top-end supermarkets sell Western food, including even Waitrose lines. But be prepared to pay considerably more than back home for some items. There are few upmarket or designer shops in what are essentially functional but uninspiring commercial centres. Most Bruneians travel elsewhere in the region and beyond to do their ‘serious’ shopping.
The last word
Brunei is probably just too small to cater for every single need. But most foreign residents are satisfied or find they can adapt. If you are enterprising and resourceful, living in Brunei can be a very comfortable and enjoyable experience. The government has promoted Brunei as ‘The Kingdom of Unexpected Treasures’. You will hopefully be pleasantly surprised and agree.
