Living in Kuwait: an expat guide
What to expect when moving to Kuwait
Kuwait is proud of its culture and the government is making efforts to preserve the little that remains from the past. The fishermen still use wooden dhows, but mainly with engines rather than sail power. Annually, the Emir (the monarch and head of state) sponsors a pearl-diving festival which lasts for several weeks. Young Kuwaiti males are trained in seafaring skills over a period of time, and then they set off to the pearl reefs and dive without oxygen tanks just as their forebears did. There is great celebration on their return.
Camel racing takes place in the cooler months. The word ‘races’ is about all that this has in common with horse racing back in Europe or America. While waiting for the race to begin, foreigners may be offered camel milk, and will find many friendly ‘experts’ keen to explain what is going on, and to offer you visits to their camel stables. The race itself is just a part of this sociable event. You will only know the race has begun when you see dust clouds in the distance, and then after a while, you can discern figures. Driving alongside the camels are vans and other vehicles with owners shouting and cheering on their jockeys.
Religion and traditions in Kuwait
Within Kuwaiti families, many traditions remain, and getting to know about these or participating in an engagement or wedding celebration, for example, is a fascinating experience.
Kuwaiti men often spend their evenings in ‘diwaniyas’. These are usually a good-sized room or basement in a home where the men meet regularly to discuss politics and business, and sometimes to play card games. Food and refreshments are also provided. The women gather in each other's homes too, but not on such a regular basis.
Dressing appropriately
Kuwait is a relatively tolerant Muslim country where Christian churches offer several daily services to a large expatriate community from Asia and the West. Young Kuwaitis follow fashion avidly, and whilst some women are completely covered by black abayas, others can be found in hipster jeans and T-shirts.
How to dress is largely a personal decision, but many Western women do not bare their shoulders in public to avoid unwanted attention. Having said this, women from other, more liberal Middle Eastern countries have few qualms about stepping out in skimpy, figure-hugging outfits. Beach wear is, of course, the norm in the beach clubs.
Observing Ramadan
The Holy Month of Ramadan is marked by Muslims fasting from sunrise to sunset. Non-Muslims are not permitted to eat or drink in public during these hours. Children are exempted from this. The evenings in Ramadan have an air of festivity and special foods are prepared for the meals during this time. Shops and restaurants stay open late and there are large crowds of people moving around the city during the evening.
Where to live in Kuwait
Housing comes in many forms, and finding a home can be an interesting experience. Negotiation skills are an essential tool in this task, and while some landlords would prefer to leave a property empty than lose face, for others, looking at a good prospect will reduce the rent to a more realistic level.
There are many well-built blocks of flats overlooking the sea with swimming pools and gyms, and further inland there are villas with three to 20 bedrooms depending on your budget and needs. Homes are found either through rental agents who charge half of a month’s rent if successful, or by word of mouth.
Getting started in Kuwait
Kuwait does not have as many interesting places to visit or things to do as some of the other Gulf States, but few would dispute that the social life is what makes this place special.
Meeting new people
A good number of Kuwaitis have been educated at American, British, Irish, and overseas colleges, and are very hospitable to foreigners. There is still a sense that they have not forgotten those who helped to liberate their country, and more recent conflicts have served as a reminder. Spend time in a Kuwaiti home, and you will experience Arabic hospitality at its best.
Spend time in a Kuwaiti home, and you will experience Arabic hospitality at its best.
There are many clubs and societies that are also a great place for any newcomer, with regular coffee and evening get-togethers and activities that cater for most interests. Burns Night, St. Andrews Ball, St. Patrick’s Ball, St. George’s Day, Remembrance Sunday ceremonies, Anzac Ball and service, and Thanksgiving, are just some of the many events in club calendars. There are amateur dramatics companies, one of which has its own theatre, and even excellent choral groups. Every year in October or November, a newcomer’s evening, not unlike a university ‘Fresher’s Night’ is organised by the British Business Forum to showcase all the different societies, schools, and clubs in Kuwait.
Day-to-day living in Kuwait
Driving
The need for an adventurous spirit comes into play when driving. Big wide roads, powerful engines, and a love of speed combine to make the roads quite frightening initially. There is little regard for traffic rules and indicating your desire to turn is only for wimps. Extrasensory perception is the most useful survival tool as a left indicator may mean the car is turning right, and many do not bother indicating at all. Even when the traffic is backed up, the cars will race at high speeds along the hard shoulders kicking up dust and stones.
Although there is little consideration for others while on the move, if you break down you will find that within minutes someone will have stopped to offer assistance.
Kuwait's seven-ring-road system is very challenging at first look, but the best advice is to get out there and face it. The middle lane is generally viewed as a safe place to drive at a moderate speed. Cars will both under and overtake.
Sport and activities
Turn up at any health club gym when the school drop-off is over, and you will find the room very busy. Exercise classes are popular and are often followed by a trip to the nearest coffee shop to catch up on the latest happenings.
Diving, boating, and fishing are all popular pastimes. There are several islands including one with a ruined Greek temple where it is pleasant to camp during the cooler months. There are indoor and outdoor tennis courts and several good beach clubs and health clubs.
The last word
Kuwait is strategically placed for the traveller. Within a couple of hours by aeroplane, you can be in Cairo, Beirut, Damascus, Amman, Dubai, or Muscat. India and Sri Lanka are a short hop, and the Far East is just a little further. However, time spent in Kuwait getting to know its people and its customs is in itself an interesting journey.
