Living in Warsaw: an expat guide

A relocation agent can help to bridge the language gap between you and the landlord. Be prepared to negotiate and if the price is fixed try to push for the added extras.

Foreigners tend to head out to the leafy residential expat enclaves of Wilanow, Mokotow, and further south to the city of Konstancin. The international schools are based within easy reach of these areas. Although your Polish neighbours may not be at your door to welcome you on day one, you will probably find that relationships flourish between locals and expats, given time. Often Polish children in these areas go to international schools so will speak good English. Once in the fold, your local neighbour will often be a great source of insight into the Polish culture and local knowledge – from navigating markets, cooking traditional dishes, and where to escape for the weekend.

There is always something going on in Warsaw, from the fun to the obscure, and numerous festivals are held throughout the year with music, sporting, and cultural themes.

Wilanow

Wilanow is a sprawling, leafy residential area around Wilanow Palace, the Royal Summer Palace. The area is a pleasant suburb and good for access to the British School of Warsaw (in Mokotow but on the Wilanow side), German School, European School, and a whole host of very good pre-school options. The bus service runs from the city to Wilanow but it is advisable to have a car. Cycling is also on the up as new cycle lanes have now been introduced.

There are also distinct areas within Wilanow itself. Old Wilanow is the area near the Palace, housing older-style villas with a quaint row of shops and restaurants along the Palace stretch. Plenty of buggies and toddlers with ice creams can be spotted during the day here. New Wilanow is often referred to as the modern area with a vast array of modern apartments around the Medicover Hospital. Apartments here are generally smaller and less expensive than in some other areas of Wilanow.

Syta

The area of Wilanow near the river (Visla) is referred to as the ‘Syta’ or ‘Zawady’ area. This houses several modern compounds with large and luxurious modern houses. Expats wanting to have safety in numbers often huddle here and benefit from a truly international set (including the wealthier Poles) and good opportunities for carpooling to school.

Powsin

Further south is the area of Powsin which is largely residential with older-style family homes and close to a huge park and botanical gardens. It has a rural feel with good access to bike paths and the river. A new main road is under construction on the northern edge of the area for the next few years which may be great for access to other parts of the city but may cut its rural feel.

Mokotow

The Mokotow area lies directly south of the city centre with easy access to the business and shopping centres of Warsaw and has good public transport links. The British School of Warsaw's early years campus is situated in Old ‘Stary’ Mokotow nearer the city centre and the main campus is in the Sadyba area of Mokotow. Another small but popular enclave of Mokotow is Stegny which also houses the popular pre-school, the English Playhouse. There are good shopping opportunities in malls nearby, notably Galeria Mokotow and Sadyba Best Mall. The kids' centres in the malls are a godsend when you have thick snow for months on end.

Konstancin

Konstancin is a small spa town in its own right, about 10km south of Wilanow. The American School of Warsaw (ASW) is situated here. ASWfamilies often choose to live in the guarded compounds surrounding the school so that children (and their parents) can walk to school and socialise easily. Many families start off outside the ‘compound’ and move in at a later stage once they recognise the benefits. For some expats, Konstancin offers all they need with good supermarkets and ‘Stara Papiernia’, a small and attractive shopping centre in a converted paper mill. Very much an expat bubble, but for some families that is exactly the ticket.

Other areas worth a look

Saska Kepa on the ‘left bank’ houses the secondary school of the French Lycée; therefore many of the French families settle here as well as the Polish politicians and the more arty and media types. It has a village feel with old villas nestled under the new National Stadium. It has one of the best strips of neighbourhood pavement cafes in Warsaw, on Ulica Francuska and a great park ‘Skaryszewski’. It’s just a short tram ride or walk to the Old Town of Warsaw. Access to the international Schools in Wilanow and Mokotow takes about 20-30 minutes by car (traffic depending).

Śródmieście, or downtown, is often suited to those who want to feel the beat of their host city. Less suited to family life due to the absence of larger houses and gardens, many expats decamp here when they become ‘empty nesters’. It offers some modern apartments often in renovated older blocks and has great access to the parks of Lazienki for an evening stroll and Saski Park.

Things to remember when looking for a new home

Mosquitoes are prevalent in Warsaw and the topic is discussed as much as Brits discuss the weather. Make sure your landlord fits insect screens, particularly in the Wilanow area near the river.

Getting internet at your home can be a frustrating experience. If possible, put into your rental contract that the landlord must set this up for you.

Ask that the locks to your house are changed before you arrive and fit the house with an alarm. Although violent crime is rare, burglaries can occur when the expats de-camp for the long summer break.

Landlords often manage their own properties so try and interview him/her on your visit. They will be your lifeline to getting any work done, information when (not if) there are power cuts, and day-to-day enquiries typical with any new house.

Often the best houses are passed on within the expat community through word of mouth. If you are looking to change your house in the future keep your ears open to who may be moving at school and leap in there.

Healthcare

Although the healthcare system in Poland is free, it often provides poor quality services and long waiting times. For those who prefer to avoid public hospitals, private medical insurance is the best choice. Even then, the downside is that the system is fragmented and appears a bit cobbled together until you get used to the process.

For family doctors, the Healthcare International Family Practice and the Wilanow Family Practice, both in Wilanow, are favourites amongst the foreign community. They are English-speaking. You can usually get an appointment on the same day, particularly for children.

For specialist treatment, you’ll be referred to smaller specialist centres across Warsaw.

Hospitals and emergencies

The Medicover hospital is located in Wilanow and within the hospital is the newly established American Clinic Warsaw, popular with the foreign community. 

In emergencies, you are best to contact the English-speaking Medicover Ambulance Service or Medicover Hotline. If you have a medical emergency that is not life-threatening, it is best to call the emergency number of your family practice. They can then direct you appropriately. It is not advisable to head to the nearest hospital as they may not be the emergency ‘receiving’ hospital that day and you may lose precious time. The ambulance service or your GP will find out which hospital you should go to. The Warsaw Children's Hospital also operates outpatient clinics.

Dentists

The dental practice Astermed benefits from a convenient location just opposite Sadyba Mall and a few minutes walk from the British School and the French School. Villa Nova Dental Clinic again conveniently located in Wilanow offers a full dental service with more glamorous aesthetic dentistry as well. Both are popular with the foreign community.

Finding home help

There is an abundance of keen, youthful, and very reasonably priced nannies and cleaners in Warsaw. Many come from Ukraine and Romania and may not have a great grasp of English but still often become core to family life. Many expats prefer to have help personally recommended rather than go through an expensive agency so look out for adverts on school notice boards, Facebook pages, or ask around.

Warsaw is very much a driving city wherever you live. Three-lane highways link much of Warsaw and traffic is generally not too bad. Rush hour does present queues, but compared with the commutes of New York and London it is a breeze. On the downside, the country as a whole has a bad reputation for dangerous and speedy driving and you do need your wits about you. Be aware that cars overtake on the left and right, perform U-turns across pedestrian crossings and mount pavements. Shrines across the country demonstrate the scale of accidents so take care.

A note of caution – always carry your documents with you. The police routinely stop cars and ask for documents: driving license and passport, vehicle registration and insurance.

Do not drink and drive and be careful in the morning after a big night out. On the minor roads particularly around Konstancin and Wilanow, watch out for horse-drawn vehicles still very much used around harvest time. And don’t forget to change your tyres – winter tyres are required for the snowy conditions so book your car in to be changed with plenty of time (mid-October). 

Taxis and public transport

Taxis are inexpensive and plentiful but make sure you belt up and don’t be afraid to ask drivers to slow down when you are not comfortable.

A good safe and reasonably cheap public transport service runs throughout Warsaw although many expats do not use it extensively, as Wilanow and Konstancin are too far out to benefit. 

Cycling

Thanks to an expansive network of bicycle paths within the city, cycling in Warsaw is not only safe but also a relaxed experience. The ‘Veturilo’ public bike system means you can grab a bike and go.

Saying that, bear in mind this is not the Netherlands and driver mentality is not necessarily bike friendly. In some cases bike lanes are not respected beware at intersections when the system sometimes goes to pot.

Eating out

If you type Polish food into Google images you will get a sea of yellow/brown pictures. This depicts traditional Polish food which is indeed plentiful around Warsaw, taking the form of golonka, (stewed pork knuckle) pieroggi (dumplings), kielbasa (sausages) – all washed down with a plentiful supply of vodka (wodka) or beer (piwo). There are many other options too.

Many restaurants spring up every year, some close pretty quickly and some have the wow factor. In fact, the Michelin Guide lists nearly 20 restaurants in Warsaw.

Butchery & Wine is popular for steaks. It’s very cosy in winter when most of Warsaw seems to hibernate. Marriotts Panorama Bar is perfect for a cocktail and a spectacular view.

Sakana and Sushi Zushi are great for sushi. Mielzynski is a wine bar and restaurant in the north of the city with a cool warehouse vibe and it is a treat for a long weekend lunch. Simple but good food with an amazing selection of wine to handpick directly from the crates. Often the legendary owner Robert Mielzynski will be on hand to guide you through the choices. If a beer hall atmosphere is craved, instead try Podwale Piwna Kompania for huge wooden platters of Polish food. 

Flaming and Co is a Warsaw institution and Aioli is a popular cantine, bar, café and deli all in one.

Grocery shopping

Despite some very good and well-established supermarkets and hypermarkets, there is a good chance that you will not find everything on your list in one place. Look upon preparing for a dinner party as a treasure hunt and enjoy exploring Warsaw through its food outlets. When you first arrive and Polish does not roll off the tongue yet, Frisco is a welcome option. They offer an online shopping service with a website in English, it’s well-used, reliable, and stress-free.

The supermarket chain Alma also offers an online shopping option with a website in English. Carrefour in Sadyba Best Mall is also favoured as a reliable stop after morning drop off handily situated next to the French School and the British School. LIDL, in Konstancin, is a good option if you’re looking for a discount supermarket.

Visa and Mastercard debit and credit cards are widely accepted in Polish shops (American Express not so much) and contactless payment methods are common. But markets and smaller boutiques will only accept cash (and sometimes not the larger notes).

Markets

Using the markets can take a bit of courage initially but try and find a friendly Pole – a parent from school or a language teacher who can show you the ropes. They are messy, sometimes smelly (river fish rotting in buckets of water), but they are cheap, colourful and very much part of a local shopping experience.

Hala Mirowska, an indoor and outdoor market north of the city centre is a part of real Warsaw equipped with elderly people chatting and known for its flowers and cheap fresh and seasonal produce. It’s not picturesque but it is authentic!

There is always something going on in Warsaw from the fun to the obscure and numerous festivals are held throughout the year with music, sporting, and cultural themes (there is even a Labrador parade). But when it gets to minus 20 and it’s time to take a break, several budget airlines can whisk you off to somewhere warmer.