Living in Rio de Janeiro Brazil: an expat guide
What to expect when moving to Rio de Janeiro
Rio is nicknamed ‘a cidade maravilhosa' — the marvellous city — and it is just that, despite its dark side. Sandwiched between the sparkling South Atlantic and a dramatic, forested mountain backdrop, Rio is easily a contender for the most beautiful city in the world. As a consequence of its geography, however, some parts of the city are among the most densely populated places on the planet and the only way to grow is up.
Known throughout the world as a beach city, Rio is also home to the world’s largest urban forest, the Tijuca Forest, which sprawls across the escarpment behind the city. High above the trees, on the Corcovado peak, stands the city’s most famous landmark, Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer), a 30m statue of Jesus, arms outstretched over the hustle and bustle below. From the foot of the statue, there is a perfect postcard view of Rio’s other famous mountain, Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf).
Cariocas
Natives of Rio are known as cariocas — and there are a lot of them! Rio is Brazil's second city in terms of size, after São Paulo. The population officially stands at 7 million, although the real figure for the metropolitan area could be double that. A sizeable proportion of these people — many of them arrivals from elsewhere in Brazil — live in favelas, the sprawling shanty towns which have brought Rio so much notoriety.
On the whole, cariocas are friendly, charming, generous, and very easy to get along with. It is, however, important to be aware that time-keeping, particularly in social situations, is not a strong point — it is quite normal for Brazilians to arrive at an event two hours or more after the time specified on the invitation.
Expatriates wanting to know whether or not they should arrive politely late will often ask if the event is horário brasileiro (Brazilian time — in other words late). Brazilians tend to socialise in bars and restaurants — it is not that common to be invited to their homes.
Is it safe to live in Rio de Janeiro?
Rio has a shocking reputation, but ordinary street crime is the problem you are most likely to encounter. A few simple rules can significantly reduce the likelihood of an assault: never go out wearing valuable jewellery or watches, keep cameras and mobile phones out of sight, don’t speak loudly in English in public places, keep car doors locked and windows shut when out and about, and above all, keep an eye on what is happening around you at all times.
If challenged, always hand over everything without a fight — including your car. It is always worth having some cash to hand over if challenged, but never go out with a large amount. All that said, most expatriates live a perfectly normal life in Rio and do not have any problems.
Favelas are dangerous places into which no foreigner, however well-intentioned, should venture unaccompanied by a local. Most are controlled by traficantes (drug traffickers), who enforce their discipline in the community, often through acts of extreme violence.
Rio’s geography means that often, not much physically separates the rich from the poor — many favelas are squeezed in alongside the city’s prosperous districts, and straggle precariously up the sides of the mountains.
What is the weather like in Rio de Janeiro?
Rio is a steamy, tropical city with high humidity levels year-round. Summer (Dec-March) is the hottest and stickiest time of year when temperatures hover between 35-40°C, although it can get hotter and there is a lot of rain. Frequently, Rio’s great landmarks are hiding in the clouds, which can be frustrating for visitors.
Most homes only have air-conditioning in the bedrooms, although hotels, offices, schools, and public buildings tend to be air-conditioned throughout. In the winter (Jun-Sept) the sun shines, the skies are blue, and temperatures usually stay around 25°C, although it can be much cooler, particularly in the mornings and evenings.
Anything below 20°C is considered cold and out come the woolly tights, anoraks, and electric blankets. You will have the swimming pool to yourself. Spring (Sept-Dec) is notable mainly for the rain and the cold fronts which sweep up from the Antarctic on a relatively regular and refreshing basis.
Sandwiched between the sparkling South Atlantic and a dramatic, forested mountain backdrop, Rio is easily a contender for the most beautiful city in the world.
The high humidity levels tend to lead to a constant battle against mould in the house. Doors and windows need to be opened regularly and some people use dehumidifiers daily. Most people have had the experience of taking something out of their wardrobe that they haven’t worn for a long time and finding it has a soft green coating! It is better to leave precious books or pictures in storage in your home country, rather than bring them to Rio.
Is Brazil a religious country?
While Brazil is the world’s largest Roman Catholic country, the church’s hold is not as strong as might be expected. Many people are nominal Catholics only. Around 20 per cent of the Brazilian population now describe themselves as evangelical protestants. These churches are very active across the country and growing rapidly, particularly in poorer areas. The English-speaking community in Rio is served by an Anglican church, Christ Church, which holds a variety of weekly services and a Roman Catholic church, Our Lady of Mercy, both of which are in Botafogo, in the zona sul.
Some cariocas follow traditional Afro-Brazilian religions such as candomblé, macumba, and umbanda, which have much in common with voodoo. They involve worshipping a variety of idols, making food sacrifices and various dance-and-trance rituals. These practices are most obvious on New Year’s Eve (Reveillon) when many ordinary cariocas dress in white and make their offerings of food and flowers to placate Iemanjá, the sea goddess.
Where to live in Rio de Janeiro
The city can be broadly divided into four districts — Centro, zona sul (south zone), zona oeste (west zone), and zona norte (north zone).
Living in Centro
Centro, as you might expect, is the city’s heart. This is where you will find old and new Rio living happily side by side — narrow streets, baroque churches, and grand architecture lie alongside modernist tower blocks, housing corporate headquarters and financial institutions. The port which has sustained the city since its founding 500 years ago is also in this part of town. Very few people live in Centro, but huge numbers make their way there every day from other parts of the city.
Living in zona portuária
The zona portuária (the area immediately around the port) has been redeveloped and transformed from a very rough part of town into a must-visit attraction. The hideous concrete flyover which for decades blighted the area has now been dismantled, and the spectacular Museu de Amanhã (Museum of Tomorrow) has been built on land reclaimed with the rubble. AquaRio, the aquarium, is just a short walk away, past old buildings decorated with some seriously impressive street art.
Living in zona sul
Rio’s smartest bairros (neighbourhoods) make up the zona sul. Many expatriates choose to live in an apartment in this part of town, mainly in Leblon, Ipanema, and Lagoa. All kinds of shops and restaurants are within easy walking distance, and two of the world’s most famous beaches are on your doorstep.
Living in zona oeste
The zona oeste — and Barra da Tijuca in particular — is also a popular choice for expatriates when it comes to housing. This relatively new suburb, which lies some 20 kms along the coast from the zona sul, has been dubbed ‘the Miami of the south’. An American-style strip development, Barra straggles between 18 kms of generally pristine beach and a multi-lane highway, which serves as one of Rio’s main arteries.
The attraction lies in its space and security. Families can rent houses with gardens and pools, and Barra is felt to be safer than the other more densely populated bairros. Barra is also increasingly popular for business. Several multinational companies have offices there, and the British and American schools have both established campuses there, which means that many families can avoid the commute ‘into town’.
Living in zona norte
The zona norte (north zone) is home to many people on lower incomes and is also a thriving industrial suburb.
Getting started in Rio de Janeiro
Security
Most middle-class professionals, both local and expatriate, live in apartments or houses with 24-hour security. Usually, homes are located within a condominium, which often offers other facilities and services as well, such as a pool or a gym. Some large condominiums have restaurant and shopping facilities too.
Some bigger houses have an extra floor or wing, with separate access, designed to accommodate older children or other relatives. Almost all have a maid’s room and bathroom.
Utilities
Electricity in Brazil runs on a 110-volt system. However, houses and apartments increasingly have several 220-volt sockets (usually in the kitchen or utility area) and conversions can be made. When you move into your house or apartment, the agent handling the sale or rental contract will usually help with the transfer of gas, electricity, and water bills to your name. Usually, this is quite straightforward, although there can be problems if previous bills registered to the property have been unpaid.
Telephones, broadband internet services, and cable TV can also be arranged relatively simply — and there is a good choice of providers — although waiting times can be very variable. It also pays, sometimes, to have all the relevant technicians at the house at the same time — that way one provider cannot inadvertently disconnect what another has only just installed.
Fridges, washing machines, dryers, and freezers can all be bought locally. Imported white goods cost considerably more than their ‘indústria brasileira’ equivalents, but are often better quality.
Healthcare and insurance
Public health services in Rio are generally very poor. There are some exceptions — the major city hospitals have some of the best trauma teams in Latin America, as unfortunately, they have lots of practice in putting people back together again. People involved in serious accidents are taken to these municipal hospitals, and once stabilised, may be moved to private facilities.
Healthcare in the private sector in Rio is very good and easily equals what is available throughout most of Europe and North America. As in the USA, people are completely free to choose their doctors and other healthcare professionals and appointments can be made directly with specialists, without the need for a referral. Many doctors speak English, as many complete their medical studies in the USA. Private hospitals usually offer full emergency services.
Expats regularly have babies in Rio — and those children will automatically have Brazilian citizenship. Caesarean births are very popular, though, so sometimes having a natural delivery involves a bit of a fight.
All expatriates need to have fully comprehensive medical insurance. This is available locally or from international providers. Many doctors and clinics have arrangements with the insurers, so that payment can be made directly.
Cosmetic surgery is big business in Rio and many ordinary Brazilians have had a little nip or tuck.
There are plenty of good dentists in Rio — many offering extensive cosmetic procedures as well as the basics. While treatment is not cheap, the cost is often lower than it would be elsewhere.
Home help
Most people have a maid, at least part-time. Families with young children often have a maid who comes every weekday or a maid who stays with them in the house during the week. Brazilian families tend to have full-time nannies for very young children too, although most expatriate families choose to have one person only, who does a bit of everything. For extra cash, most maids will babysit in the evening and at weekends.
At the end of the year, employers must pay a ‘13th’ salary — in other words, a Christmas bonus amounting to one extra month’s salary. Sometimes, it is necessary to employ a gardener too. Most gardeners will also look after swimming pools and clean cars.
Day-to-day living in Rio de Janeiro
Learning Portuguese
It is essential to learn some basic Portuguese to survive daily life. Outside of multinational companies and the tourist zone, it is difficult to find anyone who can communicate effectively in anything other than Portuguese.
All expat children have daily Portuguese lessons at school and there are many different teachers and schools offering lessons to adults. Many expats choose to have one-to-one lessons with a teacher who comes to your home or office at your convenience. Most big companies subsidise language lessons for employees and their spouses.
Getting around
Transport across the city was transformed in the run-up to the 2016 Olympics. The extension of the Rio Metro, along with its associated BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) system and the VLT tram service, is one of the greatest legacies of the games. The metro was extended out to Barra da Tijuca, and a network of quick, regular and efficient BRT buses, linked to the metro and running in dedicated lanes, dramatically cut journey times. The VLT links the port area and main bus station with Centro and Santos Dumont (Rio's domestic airport).
Travelling on the local city buses (as opposed to the BRT) is not generally recommended — passengers frequently fall prey to pickpockets and worse, the vehicles are very crowded and often driven very fast.
Driving
Drivers in Rio tend to be aggressive and lack both courtesy and patience. Nobody gives way voluntarily to anyone else. Obeying traffic lights is viewed by many as being purely optional, although cameras on some junctions have improved the situation a little.
Lane discipline is an alien concept — it is very common for drivers turning left to position themselves in the right-hand lane, and five cars squeezed across three lanes is an everyday occurrence. Roundabouts (which are very rare) need to be approached with extreme caution because nobody quite knows what anybody else is going to do.
Many road surfaces, even on main roads, are in astonishingly bad condition. Tens of thousands of people die on Brazil’s roads each year and it is easy to see why.
Driving laws and licence
Since 2008, the Lei Seca (Dry Law) has been in force in Brazil. It is illegal to consume any alcohol at all before driving, and there are regular, random police checks — known as blitzes — across Rio to enforce this, particularly in the late evening. The buying and selling of alcohol at outlets along federal highways is also prohibited.
Foreign residents can drive using a notarised translation of their original driving licence for up to six months — after that, everyone needs to apply for a Brazilian licence. To do this, most nationals of English-speaking countries need only register photos and fingerprints with the federal police and then undergo a psychological test and basic medical exam. Nationals of some European countries also have to do a practical driving test.
Owning a car
Owning a car is more of a necessity in Barra da Tijuca than in the zona sul, where many residents manage perfectly well without one, using taxis when needed — and preferably their premium services. Like the well-to-do cariocas, some expats have a driver (motorista), but most do not. Driving in Rio may not be for the faint-hearted, but once you are used to the traffic, it is not as scary as it sounds. Grit your teeth, don’t look too hard — and go for it.
Eating out
Rio has some excellent restaurants, serving all types of cuisine. Traditional Brazilian food is available everywhere — feijão (black beans) and rice, with roast meat, vegetables and farofa (toasted manioc flour). Churrascarias are very popular — you help yourself to salad and then sit back while a succession of different barbecued meats is brought to your table until you really cannot eat another thing. Seafood is also very good. Brazilian puddings are invariably very sweet and often include doce de leite — a kind of caramel derived from condensed milk.
Many Brazilians still eat their main meal at lunchtime, so long lunch hours — even on weekdays — are the norm. Italian food is very widely available and popular. The most notable absence is Indian food — even curry powder is hard to find.
Brazil’s national drink is the caipirinha — a delicious blend of ice, crushed lime, and cachaça (sugar cane spirit). It comes with a saying, ‘You’re offered one by a friend, two by a good friend, and three by an enemy’. It is very strong. Brazilian beer is very good — light and refreshing, especially at a kiosk on the beach as the sun sinks behind the mountains. Brazilian wine is slowly improving in quality, but a wide variety of reasonably-priced imported wines — particularly from Chile and Argentina — is available.
Children
Brazilians generally love children and there are very few places where children are not welcome. However, it seems that the raising of children isn’t quite so appealing. Many professional and prosperous Brazilians hand over the raising of their children to a variety of domestic helpers, nannies, maids, and drivers. An army of white-clad nannies waits at the school gates at the end of the day and as a result, it can be difficult for expat parents to meet Brazilian parents. It is expected that you will have 24-hour childcare on tap, which most expats don’t.
Children’s birthday parties are something else in Rio. They are often large, lavish, and deafeningly loud and go on late into the evening. Almost everyone the family knows is invited. Frequently they take place in a casa de festas — a purpose-built party house — offering every conceivable attraction for the under-12s, from real-life Barbies and Spidermen serving drinks to the usual fairground attractions.
While young people do not come of age officially until they are 18, 15 is the big birthday for girls, after which they are considered young women. As a consequence, 15th birthday parties are exceptionally extravagant affairs in some of Rio’s smartest venues — often black tie (tuxedo) even amongst those on lower incomes.
Shopping
Most things are available in Rio, although if they are imported, they may well be more expensive than in your home country. Toys probably have the biggest mark-up of all — Lego and Playmobil products can be three or four times the price they are in Europe. Clothing uses the continental European sizing system, while Brazil has its own system of shoe sizing.
Supermarkets have improved enormously in recent years. Most have a huge selection of fruits and vegetables, many of which you will never have seen before. Meat is generally good quality and relatively cheap. Staples such as rice, beans, and pasta are also very competitively priced. The choice of ready meals is growing fast, but luxury items, such as breakfast cereals, savoury snacks, and biscuits, can be expensive. Bread is good, although not the selection you might find elsewhere.
Another legacy of the Olympics is the arrival of the sandwich in Brazil — some supermarkets even sell ready-made versions, although some of the fillings may seem a little unusual at first.
There is a pharmacy on virtually every street corner in Rio, and many medicines which would need a prescription in other places can be bought over the counter in Rio. There is a huge selection of beauty products and toiletries, although good quality make-up and skin care products are expensive. A weekly manicure and pedicure is considered a necessity, not a luxury, by almost all Brazilian women, whatever their age or income.
What to do and where to go
The body beautiful is taken very seriously. There are gyms and sports facilities everywhere, for both adults and children. Walking, running, and cycling are popular, around the Lagoa in the zona sul and along all the beaches. A never-ending love affair with the beach lies at the heart of being a carioca. As long as the sun is hot, the sky is blue, and the beer is cold, life is worth living.
If that isn’t enough, there is surfing, windsurfing, kite-surfing, and some opportunities for sailing. The Tijuca Forest offers walking and hiking trails. For the stout-hearted, there is hang-gliding and paragliding from some of Rio’s landmark peaks.
As the former Brazilian capital, Rio has no shortage of museums, historic buildings, and churches. The Theatro Municipal offers high-quality performances and frequently hosts visiting opera and ballet companies. Most international films are screened in English with Portuguese subtitles, although some children’s films are dubbed. There are year-round samba shows and out of season, Samba City can give visitors a taste of the carnival experience.
The last word
Living in Rio is entertainment in itself, but if that isn’t enough, there is no shortage of things to do. There are also plenty of beautiful places for weekends away — the old colonial town of Paratí, glamorous Búzios, cosy retreats in the mountains and beach houses on the Costa Verde. Further away, the historic gold-rush towns of Minas Gerais are easily accessible by car. And after that, there is still so much of Brazil to see — holidays can be filled for years to come.
